Growing and Propagating Herbs by Gaby Wieland:
An amazing variety of herbs can be easily grown by children, beginner gardeners, in your own kitchen, by food lovers, chefs and commercial producers.
In earlier times herbs were used for food, medicine and beauty. The root of soapwort was used as a soap replacement, but infusing the chopped root in warm water. Coltsfoot, also a wild herb was used for dry coughs, elder flowers and berries was used for colds an flu's, and meadowsweet was used for indigestion, rheumatism ....
To create your own herb garden you can decide whether you want it formal or informal, culinary or medicinal or just for beauty. As herbs are basically wild plants it makes sense to grow them in conditions comparable to their original conditions. In general, herbs like a neutral to alkaline soil. As most of the culinary herbs originate from the Mediterranean, they like a dry sunny place. Most herbs also prefer free draining soil, e.g. thyme, borage, fennel and tarragon. One herb that does like heavy wet soil is bergamot. The annual herb chervil also prefers a wet, shady spot as it is less likely to go to seed. You van improve the texture and fertility of soil by adding your own garden compost or well rotted farm yard manure. Herbs are also quite easily grown in pots provided you take care with soil and feeding. An excellent book which gives the individual requirements for growing herbs is Jekka complete herb book by Jekka McVicar.
A few definitions.
Annuals are plants, which produce leaf, flower, fruit and then die at the end of the season. Annual herbs include basil, borage, chervil, coriander, dill, marigold, parsley, nasturtium, rocket.
Biennials grow over two seasons, usually flowering in the second. Herbs usually grown as biennials are angelica, fennel and parsley.
Perennials grow over many seasons increasing in size, some requiring division after a few seasons e.g. bergamot, mints and tarragon. Other perennial herbs will need new plants from cuttings when they grow too woody e.g. lavender, sage, thymes and rosemary.
Examples of plants which, if they remain healthy and productive, may remain in on situation for years are: bay, elder, lovage, rosemary and sweet cicely.
GROWING HERBS FROM SEED:
Indoors.
Herbs can be grown from seed indoors in a seed tray using a good seed compost. Fine seeds should be sown on the surface, other larger seeds may be just pressed into the soil. Only cover to the same depth as the thickness of the seed. Cover the tray with a piece o glass or plastic to prevent the seed drying out. As soon as the seeds have germinated make sure the trays are in a warm light place but not in direct sunlight. Prick out the seedlings when large enough to handle and pot on individually. When the seedlings are ready, harden them off by leaving young plants out during the day. Plant out, Once the danger of frost is past.
Outdoors.
You can also sow seeds outdoors once the soil has warmed up in late spring. Biennial herbs may be sown in late spring, summer or early autumn. Perennial herbs may be sown from late spring to July/August.
SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS:
Softwood cuttings are taken from the new growth of herbs like rosemary, thyme, tarragon, lemon verbena, and mint in the spring and early summer. Cut a shoot from a non-flowering tip of the plant, preferably in the morning. If you cannot pot up your cutting straight away, keep in a cool place. Then cut the baste of the stem, about 5mm below a leaf joint to leave a cutting of approximately 10 cm. Remove the leaves from the bottom third of the cutting using a knife. Then make a hole in the compost and insert the cutting up to the leaves. Label and date. Keep out of direct sunlight. You can place in a heated or unheated propagator or simply cover with an upturned plastic bottle or a plastic bag supported on a thin wire hoop (to prevent the plastic touching the leaves). Turn it inside out every few days to stop excess moisture from condensation dripping onto the cuttings . Spray with water for the first week in the morning. Once you see a sign of growth, start feeding (e.g. with seaweed extract or nettle/comfrey water). Gradually acclimatise to outdoor conditions and then plant out.
SEMI-HARDWOOD CUTTINGS (or Greenwood Cuttings):
Shrubby herbs like rosemary or myrtle towards the end of the growing season (from mid summer to mid autumn) Rooting time 4-6 weeks
HARD WOOD CUTTINGS:
Taken mid to late autumn. Rooting time up to 12 month.
Need a freer draining compost of equal parts grit, peat and bark.
ROOT CUTTING:
Suitable for creeping roots, like comfrey, horseradish, lemon balm and mint.
Fill a pot with compost and water well. Cut 4-8 cm lengths of root that carry a growing bud. Plant the cutting vertically. Cover with compost, label and date. Average rooting time 2-3 weeks.
LAYERING:
If cuttings are difficult to root, you can try layering. Basically, you encourage sections of the plant to grow while still attached to the plant. Sometimes a plant will almost start its own layering process and all you need to do is to pin it down to the soil and bury the stem. When well rooted in the autumn, sever from the parent plant. Make sure the roots are well established before planting.
The following herbs are suggestions for a basic culinary herb garden:
Parsley, Chives, Dill, Fennel, Coriander, Rosemary, Sage, Oregano, Marjoram, Thyme, Lemon Balm and Mint.
To contact Gaby email: gabywieland@eircom.net
To learn how to grow and use culinary and medicinal herbs go to The Organic Centre or contact The Organic Centre on 071-9854338.
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